CRUISING THE BEAUTIFUL KERALA BACKWATERS ON A HOUSEBOAT

Last Updated on 27th July 2024 by Bejal

One of the most synonymous things with visiting Kerala are the captivating palm lined, around 900 kilometres network of waterways referred to as the ‘backwaters’. Originally constructed to transport spices and rice to connecting regions in Kerala, and now on many visitors bucket list to cruise waterways on a houseboat along the beautiful Kerala backwaters.

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This guide to cruising along the beautiful Kerala backwaters highlights everything you need to know about spending time on a Houseboat and what to expect during your time sailing along the labyrinth of canals. This includes advice on booking packages and selecting the class of houseboat, what happens on board during your stay including dining options, stops en route as well as more sustainable alternative options if you wish not to see the backwaters via a houseboat.

What is Special About the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters?

Kettuvallam is traditionally the name of the boats made with joining wood together with rope made from coir (fibres of dried coconuts) and transported spices, rice and other essentials to the smaller remote villages that line the backwaters. Through the years, other forms of transport have replaced houseboats for their original purpose and therefore they are now serving the purpose of tourism. Thousands of visitors come to the backwaters of Kerala every year wanting to spend time gliding up and down houseboats in this area. It is inevitable one of Kerala’s biggest attractions. 

Is is important to remember that the houseboats may no longer be used to transport daily essentials to the villages around the backwaters but the area is most definitely a concentration of local life. Fishing and farming as well as local houses, schools and community gathering spaces, these all consolidate that the area is inhabited by a whole community of residents.

Hiring a houseboat on the beautiful Kerala backwaters enables one to catch a rare opportunity to experience daily life on the canals. The serenity and calm is a world away from other parts of the state and allows visitors to immerse themselves into the backwater slow pace of life, coconut groves, paddy fields, toddy outlets, wildlife and those picture perfect landscapes that you will see including the red orange sunset reflecting off the water.

Cruising the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters on a Houseboat

Where are the Backwaters in Kerala?

The backwaters in Kerala run all the way from the main city of Kochi to the coastal end of Kollam, famous for its cashew production. There are also other backwaters in Kerala, towards the north of the state as well as the south, which are not so well known and are worth exploring for this very reason.

Alleppey is most definitely the gateway to the backwaters, and although there are a few things  that can go on your itinerary when visiting Alleppey town, by far the most popular activity is to partake cruising the backwaters upon a houseboat.

Alleppey is located approximately two hours drive to the south of Kochi and more often than not referred to as ‘the city of canals’ and compared to Venice, Italy. Alleppey is nicknamed, ‘Venice of the East’ and is most definitely the hub of the backwaters and houseboat tourism.  Some houseboats also leave via the canals near Kumarakom.

When is the Best Time to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?

The best time to visit the Backwaters is anytime between October and February. The temperatures are bearable, it’s not the Monsoon season and there is no real risk of flooding around the smaller canals. It is good to note that December and January, are classed as very high season with the Christmas break therefore Houseboats will be at their premium at this time.

What is the Cruise Length on the Kerala Backwaters? 

Typically Houseboat stays are one day (a boat can be hired for one full day with lunch and breakfast included) or for an overnight stay. This includes boarding at 12:00 noon, having, lunch, snacks, dinner and breakfast the next morning before departing around 09:30am.

It is possible to do a longer Houseboat trip with the possibility of three nights traversing different canal routes, opting for a larger boat class, we’d recommend the overnight backwater cruise. If you do fancy staying on the backwaters for a little longer, then a good option can be to combine a Houseboat stay with a Homestay or resort along the backwaters. A few accommodation options located here do also have their own Houseboats and can combine a houseboat stay overnight alongside their accommodation. Some even do romantic sunset cruises if you book a homestay or resort stay.

Be-lavie Tip: The boast do not cruise during the night. They will usually moor after sunset around 19:00 so that any fishing activity cannot be disturbed. Additionally this allows the crew on the boat to also rest.

What to Expect From a Kerala Houseboat

Depending upon which Houseboat you opt for and the company you make your reservation with, these vessels come in a variety of sizes and range, from basic class right through to uber luxurious. Some are reported to have spas with therapist on board as well as swimming pools. 

We opted for a one bedroom houseboat which was pretty intimate for a couple, however, the large Houseboats can have up to ten bedrooms. Some are single deck whilst others may have two (like ours).

Be-lavie Tip: The smaller one and two bedroom Houseboats are able to cruise along the narrower waterways whilst the bigger Houseboats are not able to do this due to their wide berth and are best for short trips and day trips. 

You can expect that most of the Houseboats will have a living room, dining room, ensuite bathroom and very comfortable bed. They come fully equipped with air conditioning and modern amenities. There is an on board chef who is on hand to make all meals and prepare snacks and guests are well catered for with traditional Keralan food prepared according to their dietary requirements.

How to Select a Houseboat Company

There are around 1.200 houseboats in Kerala with approximately 700 that operate in the main Alleppey and Kumarakom waterways, it can be difficult to choose which company to book with. You may want to take into consideration things like reviews, customer service as well as the class of the boats and if they have a priority towards sustainability. The Kerala Tourism Board has classified houseboats as being standard, deluxe, premium and luxury. 

How Many Crew Members are on the Overnight Cruise?

Don’t think you’ll be all by yourself on your houseboat.  A relaxing stay on the beautiful Kerala backwaters means you can literally sit back and relax. On our particular houseboat, we had a captain, who takes care of making sure you traverse the waters safely and calmly, a cook, who is responsible for cooking all your meals and providing drinks as well as a skipper who also doubled up as a waiter and informed us all about the backwaters and what extra activities could be done during the cruise.

Although you are left to enjoy the cruise for much of the overnight route, it does feel like a little family on the water who are very friendly.

Be-lavie Tip: Please note the crew do not have meals with guests and they do stop for lunch and moor the boat. They also hang out towards the back of the boat in their quarters when they are not attending to their duties onboard.

Pickadly Houseboats

We booked our overnight houseboat stay with Pickadly Houseboats based in Alleppey. 

The class of houseboat we were allocated is the ‘Royal Suite’ and is the most luxurious option that the Pickadly Houseboats do. On the lower level there is a living room, fully contained bedroom, bathroom with shower as well as a Jacuzzi bath. The bedroom can only be accessed via the living room with the area being fully glassed. Upstairs there is an indoor living area which doubles up as a dining room with an outside sun deck. Its great to sit out on the sun deck and watch the serene backwater scenes passing you by. 

What Should You Expect During the Overnight Cruise?

• Check in is around 12:30pm at the Pickadly Houseboat office where you’ll need to sign the usual check in documents as you do at a hotel.
• You’ll be walked over to the Houseboat mooring area for the company and meet the crew who also take care of your luggage.
• Sip on fresh coconut juices and snack on the fruit in the fruit basket provided whilst settling in.

• Lunch is served on the top deck around 13:00 (the boat will moor for an hour).
• Post lunch you have the option of partaking in either an Ayurvedic massage or a small fishing boat ride along the smaller backwaters. This allows you to see a lot more of the rural life, paddy fields and buildings alongside where the local people live. This lasts around 45 minutes and incurs an extra fee of INR 250 per person.

• Back on the Houseboat, it’s afternoon tea time, You’’ be served tea or coffee or drinks of your choice with some freshly made banana fry. 
• Have some time to relax and unwind before watching the sun go down. The sunsets along the backwaters are absolutely stunning.
• The boat will moor for the evening and at 19:30 dinner will be served after which the rest of the night is your own as the crew head up to bed and relax.

• At 19:30, the captain will set off and refuel the houseboat. 
• 08:00 A hearty breakfast is served whilst you watch the morning scenes on the canals unfold. 
• 09:15, you will be dropped off to the original point of embarking and escorted back to the Pickadly office.

What is The Food Like on the Houseboat Cruise?

Food is fresh and delicious based upon whether you are vegetarian or a meat eater. The company will ask for your dietary requirements upon booking.

Sample Vegetarian Menu

Lunch

Hot and sour soup, veg sweet corn, plain rice, green salad, sambar, thoran, avaiyal, pachadi, pickles, curd, pappad, dessert of payasam.
Chapathi & Dall fry for vegetarians.

Tea time

Tea or Coffee Banana Fritters, Onion Pakoda, French-fry’s.

Dinner

Panner mutter masala, chappatis, pilau rice, Thoran, Curd, pickles, Gopi manjuri Bed dessert is a fruit salad with ice-cream.

Breakfast

Fruit juice, Bread butter jam, eggs to order Cold/Hot milk, Puttu-kadala curry, Dosa – Sambar & Chutney with tea and coffee.

The Details

• Location: Valamparambil, Avalokkunnu P.O. Alappuzha-6. I Tel. +91 944617109 / +91 9388834291 I Website I Map Location
• Overnight houseboat prices (Royal Suite): INR 20,000 – 28,000 (£190-£264)

Responsible Ways To See The Backwaters

It is very handy that the Keralan Tourism Board have put in so many measures and guidelines to ensure sustainability and responsible tourism is a priority. You can read more at Kerala Mission Tourist Board Society

Unfortunately although there are government regulations that houseboats have to follow, many are not policed at all times. We discovered the unsustainability of cruising the backwaters on our trip and therefore have looked into alternative responsible ways to explore the  backwaters. the article above was very useful and we have summarised some of the points here below.

When researching a houseboat company independently, ensure: 

• Whether the boat has a septic tank and waste should be dumped at a designated location rather than into the backwaters.
• The community around the backwaters, fish and bathe in the canals so it’s best to do your research. 

To be best informed before embarking on your backwater journey, refer to the below points to consider exploring in a more sustainable and responsible way.

• Select a houseboat that is eco-friendly – Head to Eco Houseboats to learn all about their sustainable forward houseboats
• Choose to explore the backwaters by bicycle – You’ll get many authentci landscapes and scenes of local life in the backwaters exploring via bikes.
• Stay on an eco-friendly resort or hotel on the backwaters – Do you research in finding an eco-friendly resort, such as the The Punnamadu Resort, who have a number of sustainable practices in place.
• Take a Kayak tour on the backwaters – Kayaks allow you to visit the smaller waterways, villages and seeing the hidden gems  without the carbon that it released from motorised boats.
• Stay in a homestay in Alleppey – Try local food, be exposed to the local lifestyle and learn teh authentic way of life with your hosts.
• Eat local vegetarian food – Vegetarian food is delicious in Kerala, One half of us is vegetarian. Special occasion feasts, like Onam, Sadya is where a traditional vegetarian meal is served on a banana leaf, containing up to 26 different dishes complementing each other.
• Take canoes or ferries instead of the houseboat cruise – see State Water Transport Department for more information

Sustainable Backwater Day Tours From Kochi

Half Day Village Backwater Eco Country Boat Cruise :Group Tour from Fort Kochin

Full Day Backwater Village Punting Boat Cruise

Excursion to Rice Farms of Kerala.

Boat Races on the Beautiful Kerala Backwaters

One of the most popular events that occurs on the beautiful Kerala backwaters are the boat races which are mainly held in Alleppey and Kollam, It’s quite an exciting time for the backwaters where lots of tourists as well as locals gather on the banks to watch and cheer on the boat racers. Some of the major boat races include, Aranmula Snake Boat Race, Alleppey Nehru Trophy Boat Race, Kumarakom Sri Narayana Jayanthi Boat Race, Kallada Boat Race at Kollam, Indira Gandhi Boat Race at Kochi, Champakulam Moolam Boat Race, Payippad Jalotsavam, Thazhathangadi Boat Race in Kottayam and Kumarakom Boat Race are the major boat races held in Kerala Backwaters every year.

We were lucky enough to see the boat race practices in the early morning during our time on the backwaters. It’s pretty thrilling and fascinating to watch the synchronisation in rowing of the snake boats.

Things to do in Alleppey After Exploring the Backwaters

Following your time in the backwaters, you may wish to check out Alleppey for a a day, It’s worth a visit, here and our suggestions on what to see:

Alleppey Lighthouse

Built in 1862, this is the first of its kind of Lighthouse in the the Arabian sea coast of Kerala. 

You can climb to the top and look at the views which stretch out to the Arabian Sea, It can get pretty warm in the tower so early morning or late afternoon is a better time to visit. 

• Location: CCSB Road, Civil Station Ward, Alappuzha, Kerala 688012 I Tel. +91 4772253459 I Map Location 
• Opening Hours: 09:00-11:45, 14:00-17:30 Mon-Thrs.
• Entrance Fee: INR 20 Indian Citizens & INR 50 for foreign nationals.

Alleppey Beach

If you can spare the time, it’s worth spending a couple of hours at Alleppey Beach. It is pretty close to the Lighthouse and has a pier which is over 150 years old. The beach hosts many local events such as the annual Alleppey beach festival and sand art festivals to name a couple.

• Map Location 

Weaving & Saree Stores

There are lots of weaving houses with saree shops attached to them. This is most definitely interesting to go and see. Watch the skillful weavers make traditional Kerala sarees, two piece suits as well as shawls and other forms of clothing. It’s also a great opportunity to buy some locally made traditional attire for gifts. 

Be-lavie Tip: Bartering is quite common so make sure to make a deal if you’re buying more than one item. 

International Coir Museum. 

Perhaps one of the most interesting places to visit for an hour is the International Coir Museum. The museum showcases the traditional processes and development of the coir industry, including wetting and fibre extraction, advent of mechanisation in coir sector. You can watch a short video film that takes visitors through the world of coir over the ages and gives information on the origin and growth of the industry and the latest developments made through research and development. 

There is the opportunity to see the weavers at work as this is where those learning the Coir industry come to train. You’ll see theory classes being undertaken as well as weavers making rugs, baskets, carpets and many more things. There is an onsite shop filled with souvenirs too.

• Location: Kanyakumari Hwy, Kalavoor, Alappuzha, Kerala 688522. I Tel. +91 4772258067 I Website I Map Locaton 
• Opening Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 09L30-17:00, Closed on Mondays
• Entrance Fee: INR 250

Frequently Asked Questions – Beautiful Kerala Backwaters

Which is the Best Month to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?

The best time to visit the backwaters in between October and March, but this is also peak season. To avoid the crowds October and March are perfect.

When is the Worst Time to Visit the Kerala Backwaters?

June to August can see torrential rain and widespread flooding.

How Can Tourists Ensure Houseboats are Licensed and Safe?

It is best to do your research with each company and go by recommendations by those that have travelled previously. Eco-friendly houseboats will have the appropriate certification to support their practices from the Kerala Tourism.

Is it Safe to Swim in Kerala Backwaters?

We wouldn’t advise on this as it is dangerous with large boats passing. It is not allowed on the larger canals and we didn’t see anyone swimming in the smaller waterways either.

What is the Most Romantic Thing About the Backwaters?

Most definitely the sunset. Golden hour on the backwaters is picture perfect and looks beautiful with the red orange sky as a backdrop to the palm fringed banks and the glistening water.

Does Cruising the Backwaters Feel Quite Touristy?

Our honest opinion is yes. generally the number one thing that most visitors to Kerala want to do is check off cruising on a houseboat. We went in December, over the Christmas holidays, and when you first set off (see image below), it does seem pretty crowded and busy, but once you veer off down the interconnecting canals, things do get a lot more quieter. Houseboats are a pretty big business in Kerala and the great thing is that more companies are paying attention to ensuring their houseboats are made and adhere to more sustainable practices. Of course like most things they are not 100% eco-friendly.

Cruising The Beautiful Kerala Backwaters: Round-Up 

The stunning backwaters of Kerala are unique, beautiful, serene and an area that anyone visiting the region has to discuss. Hopefully the article has addressed many of the concerns and questions visitors may have with regards to houseboat selection, sustainable and responsible choices. 

The backwaters have a lot to do and discover for those wishing to have  a slower pace of travel and really get into the authentic style of life the community has in this region. If you are planning on spending a few days in the area, it is definitely worth checking out the town of Alleppey or Alappuzha as it is also referred to, which will give you a contrast of life between the town and backwater life.

Related Articles: Beautiful Kerala Backwaters

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• What Makes Kerala One of India’s Most Eco-Friendly States
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