INTRODUCING OLTRARNO: AN ARTISAN NEIGHBOURHOOD IN FLORENCE

The historic centre of Florence is quite the feast for the eyes with renowned places like the Duomo, the Accademia, the Uffizi and many more well known landmarks dominating it’s skyline. The centre of the city definitely pulls in the masses but many visitors don’t really head over the river to discover the network of small streets. This guide delves into the the best things to do in Oltrarno: an artisan neighbourhood in Florence. Read on to learn about the best things to do, where to stay, where to eat and other little gems in this part of Florence.

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Where Is Oltrarno?

Oltrarno in Italian means ‘beyond the Arno’ and that is exactly where it is located. In my opinion, it’s one of Florence’s most authentic, hip and trendy neighbourhoods and comprises three historic quarters, San Niccolo, Santo Spirito and the coolest San Frediano.

We’d describe Oltrarno almost like a myriad of artisanal workshops and showrooms interspersed with galleries, manicured gardens, a lively al fresco dining culture and the hub of Florence’s after dark drinking scene.

Map of Oltrarno

How to use Map: The points of interest, things to do in Oltrarno, places to stay and where to dine, featured in this article can be found on the map below. It also has a wider variety of points that are relevant to the article about first-time visitors to Florence too. The menu on the left reveals a drop down list of the locations.

How To Get To Oltrarno

Getting to Oltrarno couldn’t be easier, you simply walk across the famous Ponte Vecchio (‘Old Bridge’) past the vast prestigious goldsmith’s and jewellery shops and as you alight, you’re literally in Oltrarno.

To find out more about Florence fro first-time visitors including, how to get to the city, transport from the airport plus the best way to get around, how long to stay for and the best time to visit, read the related article below…

Related Article: Florence For First-Time Visitors: A Guide

Where To Stay In Oltrarno

Personally, we recommend positioning yourself away from the vast crowds, stay in one of the many beautiful residences located in Oltrarno.

SoprArno Suites

• Style: Affordable Luxury.
• Location: Via Maggio, 35, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy I Website
• Find it Here: Map Location.
• What to expect: A sixteenth century former palace beautifully restored with antiques and quirky decoration. This stylish bed and breakfast has an honesty bar and high ceilings all throughout for a grand feel.
• Perfect For: Couples and those who love antiques and interior design.

Read all about this creatively designed, unique antique-filled boutique hotel in the related article below.

Related Article: Soprarno Suites: A Beautiful Boutique Hotel in Florence

Ad Astra Florence

• Style: Affordable Luxury.
• Find it Here: Map Location.
• What to expect: A French inspired Hotel Particulier, set in Europe’s largest private walled garden, the Giardino Torrigigani. The sister property to SoprArno Suites, Ad Astra is also a bed and breakfast with stunning individually designed rooms, antiques as well. as views of the stunning gardens.
• Perfect For: Couples and those who love a slice of privacy.

Read all about Ad Astra in the relevant article below.

Related Article: Ad Astra: A Beautiful Hotel Located in Private Gardens

Things To Visit In Oltrarno

Palazzo Pitti

If you’re an avid art-lover like us, then the Palazzo Pitti is non-negotiable, you need to make a beeline for this this place. The palace originates from the Renaissance era and belonged to Lucca Pitti, a Florentine banker. The Medici family bought the palace in 1549, when it became their main residence. Today the palace houses the Palatine Gallery, boasting over 500 paintings, most of which are from the Renaissance era.

• Location: Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Tickets & Info: Website
• Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 08:15-18:30, Closed Mondays

Boboli Gardens

The Gardens cover 11 acres and make up the biggest green space in central Florence. Laid originally in the sixteenth century, the gardens are attached to the Pitti Palace and are thus the formal gardens of the palace. There are many outdoor sculptures including ancient Roman and Baroque works. There is also a stunning rose garden together with beautiful lakes and ponds.

Early morning visitors are treated to a stunning sunrise and panoramic views of the city awaking with the backdrop of the Duomo.

• Location: 50125 Florence, Metropolitan City of Florence, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Tickets & Info: Website
• Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 08:15-18:30, Closed Mondays

Giardino Bardini

Four hectares of stunning landscaped gardens, a beautiful villa, six fountains, wisteria (when in season), boasting sixty varieties of hydrangea and  some Anglo Chinese gardens, you could spend the whole day here. Much of the fruit is a true representation of Tuscan gardens. There is also a coffee shop with a view. 

• Location: Via de’ Bardi, 1, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Tickets & Info: Website
• Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10:00-16:00, Closed Mondays

Piazzala Michelangelo

At sunset your going to want to grab probably the best view of Florence around. You know that iconic postcard, picture perfect panorama you see of Florence with the Duomo and the Ponte Vecchio? Well Piazzale Michelangelo is the place. It gets crowded so go early to bag your spot, get your shots and leave as soon as you do is my advice. Additionally it’s a 20 minute uphill walk but your efforts will be rewarded for sure.

• Location: Piazzale Michelangelo, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Tickets & Info: Free
• Opening Hours: Open all the time

San Miniato al Monte

Personally, an even better view in my opinion, is from the quieter church of San Miniato al Monte. An absolute gem of a church, the basilica dates back to the 11th century and is one of the finest Romanesque churches in all of Italy. The monks also make a pretty good ice-cream, which is sold in the shop at the top. The creator of  Pinocchio is  buried in the cemetery outside the church alongside many important Italian figures.

• Location: Via delle Porte Sante, 34, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Tickets & Info: Free
• Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday 09:30-13:00 and 15:00-19:00

Santo Spirito Church

This fifteenth century church was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, who also bought us the Duomo, may look perfectly proportioned from outside but is a total contrast inside. It houses an array of artworks by the likes of Fillippino Lippi and many others. Definitely worth a visit if you like your Renaissance arts.

• Location: Piazza Santo Spirito, 30, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Further Info: Website
• Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday 10:00-13:00 and 15:00-18:00

Santo Spirito Square

Right in front of the church is the beautiful Santo Spirito Square. During the day it’s home to flower and food stalls but at night this is the heart of the restaurant scene and nightlife. Also a fab place to people watch with a traditional Tuscan dish or glass of wine. Choose from a variety pf restaurants and mingle with the locals.

• Location: Piazza Santo Spirito, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Opening Hours: All day, everyday

Brancacci Chapel

The Brancacci Chapel is located in the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine and allows you to see the development of the Renaissance through art. That’s because Masaccio, often called the father of the Renaissance, began frescoing the chapel in the 1420s at just 21 years of age. He died at 27, with the frescoes left unfinished until the 1480s. Filippino Lippi completed the frescoes, 60 years after they’d begun.

The frescoes are a great way to see how Renaissance art developed from its earliest years to the midway point. That’s not to mention that the frescoes are simply stunning: Masaccio’s “Tribute Money” is one of the most famous pieces of the early Renaissance and his frescoes were so important, the great Michelangelo was thought to have trained by copying them.

• Location: Piazza del Carmine, 14, 50124 Firenze FI, Italy (located in: Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine)
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Tickets & Info: Website
• Opening Hours: Wednesday-Monday 10:00-17:00, Closed Tuesdays.

Giardino Delle Rose

Created in 1865 by Giuseppe Poggi, this is a lovely garden just below Piazzale Michelangelo and is perfect for a short walk with views of the city.

The garden houses a collection of roses, lemons and other plants, as well as a Japanese garden, donated to Florence by the twin city of Kyōto and the Zen Kodai-Ji temple. In particular, it contains about 400 varieties of roses made up of a collection of 1,200 plants.

Image Courtesy: Sailko, CC BY 3.0 Creative Commons via Wikimedia Commons

• Location: Viale Giuseppe Poggi, 2, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Further Info: Website
• Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday: 09:00-20:00 and Sunday 10:00-20:00

St Marks Church Opera

If you’re a culture vulture and into your opera, then St Mark’s church is your place. They have five performances a week and you can purchase tickets online. All shows are extremely intimate and performed by a small cast of very talented opera singers. The shows are in the beautiful main church and trust me this is a special performance you won’t forget.

• Location: Via Maggio, 16, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Tickets & Info: Website

Street Art

You didn’t think I would leave the street art out did you? Strolling the streets of Oltrarno, you will no doubt come across the talents of the local street artists. You’ll  have to wander the little hidden alleyways and streets to come across some of these so make sure you take a few little detours too!

Recommended Tours in Oltrarno

Top Florence Activities We Love

These are general popular tours and experiences we’d recommend, especially for first- time visitors to the city. Most involve skip the line perks and are better value for money. They’re perfect to book ahead and leave the crowds behind, especially if you plan to travel in peak season.

Where To Eat In Oltrarno

Oltrarno has many places to dine for all budgets. Read our guides on where to eat the best vegetarian-friendly food in Florence and if you fancy something a bit more special, eat at the best fine dining restaurants in Florence

Related Article: Where To Eat The Best Vegetarian-Friendly Food In Florence

GustaPizza

This hole in the wall pizza serves up the most authentic Tuscan pizza I’ve had for a fraction of the price of restaurants. The queues wrap around the street and that was all the convincing we needed to grab one of their small selection of pizzas. We took the pizzas back to our hotel and cracked open a bottle of red. And the rest as they say is history!

• Location: Via Maggio, 46r, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Info: Facebook Page
• Price Range: €10-€20 per person
• Opening Hours: Tuesday-Wednesday 11:30-23:30. Closed Monday

Santarosa Bistrot

If you’re a lover of urban al fresco dining, you’ve found your place at Santarosa Bistrot. Outdoor and indoor dining with a great selection of drinks and a fab lunch, dinner and evening drinks menu, there’s literally something for everyone here, including great coffee in that mix!

Seating is casual and relaxed and the vibe is very much chilled and the food well, the photos probably just speak for themselves. I would totally recommend the hazelnut tiramisu. Santarosa is only open spring-summer and closes at this spot in the winter.

• Location: Lungarno di Santa Rosa, 50142 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Reservations & Info: Website
• Price Range: €20+ per person
• Opening Hours: Wednesday-Friday 08:00-00:00, Saturday 10;00-23:00. Sunday 10:00-23:00, Monday 08:00-16:00, Tuesday 08:00-00:00

La Bottega Del Buon Caffè

A Michelin starred restaurant situated overlooking the San Niccolò Tower at the foot of the Arno. Chef Erez and his team cook up a storm in the open kitchen and the theme is very much farm (they have a hotel and farm near Siena) to kitchen. Check out the full review below…

Related Article: Beautiful Fine Dining At La Bottega Del Buon Caffe, Florence

• Location: Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r – Firenze, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Reservations & Info: Website
• Price Range: €100-€150 per person
• Opening Hours: Enquire via website fro seasonal opening times

Related Article: Eat The Best Fine Dining Restaurants In Florence

L’ov

This Vegetarian restaurant serves mix of traditional regional dishes revisited for an old-time tavern, in the heart of Oltrarno.in Florence.

L’OV serves an unconventional menu that does not have starters, first courses or second courses, but is a temporal journey in taste that begins with ‘before’, continues with ‘after’ and ends with ‘and then’.

The food is colourful, creative and absolutely delicious. It celebrates the vegetable exceptionally well. The decor matches the food in colour and plentiful foliage with bright accents of red and green.

• Location: Piazza del Carmine, 4R, 50123 Florece
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Reservations & Info: Website
• Price Range: €30-€40 per person
• Opening Hours: Check website for seasonal opening times

Related Article: A cookery lesson in Florence with The Cooking Lab

Recommended Food Tours In Florence

Where To Drink Coffee & Aperitivo

Le Volpa E Luva

A definite favourite of the locals in Oltrarno is this small wine bar tucked away in a small square off the main road to the Pitti palace. Booking is recommended to avoid disappointment. They even do wine tasting but we were here for aperitivo and opted for a couple of glasses of red with a cheese and ham board. There’s a lovely bustling atmosphere in the square and the wines are exquisite.

• Location: Piazza dei Rossi, 1R, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Reservations & Info: Website
• Price Range: €10-€20 per person
• Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday 12:00-21:00

Caffè Degli Artigiani

This little café is tucked away behind the Piazza della Passera in Santo Spirito and serves some great coffee, cakes, aperitivos and other sweet treats. As the name suggests it was a place for craftsman to stop by and grab a quick coffee and chat not much has changed since 1945 as it still very much has that vibe. They also serve sandwiches and salads and let me just add, the toilet is a stand up one, hole in the ground-just so there’s no nasty surprises!

• Location: Via dello Sprone, 16r, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Reservations & Info: Website
• Price Range: €1-€10-€20 per person
• Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 08:00-01:00, closed Mondays

Libreria Café La Cité

Located in San Frediano, this was one of my favourite bookshops with great Espresso to match. Quirky and fun with deliberately mismatched furniture and a piano, this place is great to relax with a good book. All books are in Italian-just to note!

• Location: Via dello Sprone, 16r, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Reservations & Info: Website
• Price Range: €1-€10-€20 per person
• Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday 12:00-01:00, Sunday 15:00-21:00

Sottarno Commestibili

A lovely cute café adjoining SoprArno Suites is this little space serving pastries and a great variety of coffee and drinks. Think cute French bistro styling with the owner’s collection of world menus on the walls. Very Kitsch.

• Location: Via Maggio, 53 R, 50125 Firenze FI, Italy
• Find it Here: Map Location
• Reservations & Info: No website
• Price Range: €1-€10-€20 per person
• Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday 10:00-21:00,

Recommended Wine Experiences In Florence

Be-lavie Tip Tips

• Buy tickets for the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens online and if you’re an early bird go early, around 08:30-09:00 and you can enjoy the place all to yourself and take in the grandeur before the crowds and tour buses arrive.
• Book popular restaurants, especially for aperitivos as you may not get a seat that night especially in peak season.
• Staying Oltrarno is a lot quieter and a little more cost effective than on the other side of the river. The hotels are old residences and full of character.
• The pace of life in Oltrarno is a lot slower and relaxed away from the noise and crowds that you encounter on the side of the Ponte Vecchio.

Oltrarno Neighbourhood FAQs

Is it cheaper to stay in Oltrarno?

Depending upon your chosen style of accommodation, on the whole it is a lot more affordable to stay in Oltrarno as it’s not right in the middle of the tourist spots, even though there are many places here that visitors head to. There tend to be more small boutique style residences in this part of town.

How far is Oltrarno from the Santa Maria Novella Station?

This is around a 21 minutes walk or 10 minutes by taxi.

Be-lavie Tip: If you have lots of luggage with you, you may not want to walk through the busy centre of Florence, so we’d recommend getting a taxi or Uber.

Why is Oltrarno referred to as an artisan area?

Oltrarno is an area filled with lots of Florence’s artisan or cottage industries such as art restoration, leather shops, small jewellery makers and more. Read the below article for more of an idea of these artisans and wher eyou can visit to support their centuries old trade.

Related Article: A Florentine Artisan Tour By A Local

Oltrarno An Artisan Neighbourhood in Florence Round-Up

Oltrarno, a charming labyrinth of streets lined with beautiful cafes, artisan boutiques, boutique hotels and local apartments in former palaces is a refreshing part of the touristy, crowded parts of Florence. It’s like a little haven tight in the heart of teh city but still retains its very local and authentic feel.

It’s also a great place to base yourself if you are looking to visit some of the sites like the Pitti Palace, Giardino Boboli and the Giardini Bardini. There are also some wonderful local restaurants that are a little quieter and only a 20 minute walk over the Ponte Vecchio to the crowded hangouts. Otrarno is a little gem in the heart of Florence.

Related Articles

• The Best of Florence For First-Time Visitors
• 9 of the most Amazing Postcard-friendly Views of Florence
• A Luxury Stay At The Belmond Villa San Michele, Fiesole
• SoprArno Suites: A beautiful Boutique Hotel in Florence
• Ad Astra Florence: A Beautiful Hotel Located In Private Gardens
• A Luxury Stay At The Beautiful Bernini Palace Hotel
• The Best Fine Dining Restaurants in Florence
• Where To Find Vegetarian-Friendly Food in Florence
• La Bottega del Buon Caffe – Michelin Star Review
• Il Locale Firenze: Contemporary Fine Dining in Palatial Surroundings
• Visiting the Chianti Hills by Vespa from Florence
• Driving through the Tuscan countryside from Florence by Fiat 500
• An Artisan Tour of Oltrarno
• A food tour of Florence with a local
• A cookery lesson in Florence with The Cooking Lab

Resources To Help Plan Your Trip

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